Clean skin, one patient treatment and a comfortable moisturiser. That is the whole night shift.
Evenings are where treatments live, and where patience pays off.
If the morning routine is about protection, the evening routine is about repair and reset. Over the day your skin collects sunscreen, makeup, sweat, sebum and pollution. Leaving all of that on overnight will not ruin your face, but cleaning it off gives any treatment a fair chance to work and helps keep pores clear.
Step 1: Remove the day
Modern sunscreens and long-wear makeup are designed to stay put, which is great at noon and annoying at night. A first cleanse with a cleansing oil, balm or micellar water breaks them down. Massage onto dry skin for about a minute, then add water to emulsify an oil or balm, and rinse. This is what people mean by "double cleansing".
Not wearing makeup and using a light sunscreen? A single thorough wash with your regular cleanser may be enough. Double cleansing is a tool, not a rule.
Step 2: Cleanse
Follow with the same gentle cleanser you use in the morning. Thirty to sixty seconds of light massage, lukewarm water, then pat dry with a clean towel. Swap face towels often; damp fabric is a cosy home for bacteria.
Step 3: Treat, slowly
Night is the best time for active ingredients that can make skin more sun-sensitive or that break down in light. The most researched is the retinoid family: retinol and retinaldehyde in cosmetics, and prescription options such as tretinoin and adapalene (adapalene 0.1% is available over the counter in some countries, including the United States). Retinoids support cell turnover and are widely used for breakouts, texture and signs of ageing.
They are also famous for irritation at the start, often called "retinisation": dryness, flaking and some stinging. Begin with a pea-sized amount two nights a week, applied to dry skin. If all is calm after two weeks, try three nights, and so on. Retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy, so speak to a doctor if that applies to you.
Go slow with treatments. A product you can tolerate three nights a week beats one you abandon after five days of peeling.
Weekly: exfoliate, gently
Chemical exfoliants dissolve the bonds between dead surface cells. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid suit dry or dull skin; salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), is oil-soluble and popular for congestion. Once or twice a week is plenty for most beginners.
Do not use an exfoliant on the same night as a retinoid until you know how your skin handles both. Warning signs that you have overdone it: a shiny, tight look, stinging when you apply plain moisturiser, or sudden new redness. If that happens, stop all actives and use only cleanser and moisturiser for a week.
Step 4: Moisturise
Finish with a moisturiser, possibly a little richer than your daytime one. Ingredients like ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids support the skin barrier, which is especially helpful on nights you use a retinoid. Some people apply moisturiser first and retinoid on top, a method called "buffering", to soften irritation.
A sample beginner week
Monday and Thursday: remove, cleanse, retinoid, moisturise.
Saturday: remove, cleanse, exfoliant, moisturise.
All other nights: remove, cleanse, moisturise.
Little things that help
Pull long hair back, change pillowcases weekly and keep a glass of water by the bed if your room is heated. None of these replace the routine, but they make it easier to keep. Next, read our skin type guide to fine-tune your products, or go back to the morning steps.
General information only. Prescription treatments should be used under the guidance of a qualified professional.
